If you've spent any time on the trails lately, you know that installing yamaha blaster wide a arms is one of the single best ways to keep your quad from feeling like it's going to tip over every time you hit a turn. The Yamaha Blaster is a legendary machine—it's light, it's punchy, and it's arguably one of the most fun two-strokes ever built. But let's be real for a second: from the factory, they are incredibly narrow. If you're riding at any kind of aggressive pace, that narrow stance starts to feel a little sketchy, especially when you're trying to power through a corner or navigate off-camber terrain.
Adding width to the front end changes the entire personality of the bike. It's not just about looking "pro" or having a wider footprint for the sake of it. It's about physics. When you widen that front track, you're lowering the center of gravity relative to the width, which means you can carry way more speed through the turns without feeling like you're about to bicycle on two wheels.
Why Stock Width Just Doesn't Cut It
The stock Blaster width is fine if you're just puttering around the yard or doing tight, slow-speed woods riding. But once you start modding the engine—maybe you've added a pipe, a bigger carb, or a big bore kit—the power quickly outpaces the handling. You've got this little rocket ship that wants to go fast, but the chassis is struggling to keep up.
Most riders find that the stock front end feels "darty." It reacts quickly to every little bump and rock, which can be exhausting over a long day of riding. By switching to yamaha blaster wide a arms, you're lengthening the lever arm of the suspension. This inherently smooths out the steering and makes the quad much more predictable. You stop fighting the handlebars and start actually enjoying the flow of the trail.
Breaking Down the +2 and +3 Options
When you start looking at aftermarket sets, you're usually going to see two main options: +2 or +3. This simply means the arms are two or three inches wider per side than the stock ones.
A +2 setup is the "sweet spot" for most trail riders. It adds four inches of total width to the front end, which is a massive difference in stability but still allows you to squeeze between trees in tighter sections. If you go too wide, you might find yourself getting stuck in places where your buddies on stock machines cruise right through.
On the other hand, the +3 setup is the go-to for MX riders or guys who spend most of their time in the dunes. Adding six inches of total width makes the Blaster feel like a completely different animal. It's incredibly stable at high speeds and gives you a much more "planted" feeling when you're coming off jumps. Just keep in mind that if you go this wide, you really need to consider what you're doing with the rear axle too. Running a massive front end with a tiny stock rear axle can make the handling feel a bit unbalanced.
Standard Travel vs. Long Travel
This is where things can get a little confusing, and your budget usually makes the decision for you. Standard travel yamaha blaster wide a arms are designed to work with stock-length shocks (or aftermarket shocks designed for the stock length). This is the most common route because it's way cheaper. You get the width and the stability without having to drop a fortune on high-end, long-travel shocks right away.
Long travel arms, however, are a different beast. These arms move the shock mounting point further out, allowing you to run a much longer shock body. This gives you more suspension travel and a much more progressive feel. If you're serious about racing or you're jumping your Blaster regularly, long travel is the way to go. But be warned: you can't just bolt long travel arms on and use your old shocks. You have to buy the arms and the specific shocks together, which can easily double or triple the price of the project.
Don't Forget the Supporting Hardware
You can't just swap the arms and call it a day. There are a few "hidden" costs to doing this right. First off, you're going to need longer tie rods. Thankfully, almost every kit that sells yamaha blaster wide a arms includes the tie rods, but it's always worth double-checking. You don't want to be halfway through the install only to realize your steering won't reach the spindles.
The big one, though, is the brake lines. When you push those spindles out two or three inches, your stock rubber brake lines are going to be stretched to their absolute limit—or they won't reach at all. It's a safety issue, plain and simple. Most riders take this opportunity to upgrade to braided stainless steel lines. Not only do they fit the new width, but they also get rid of that "mushy" feeling in the front brakes. It's one of those "while you're at it" upgrades that makes a world of difference.
The Installation Process: What to Expect
Installing a new set of arms isn't rocket science, but it can be a bit of a workout. If your Blaster is an older model, those factory pivot bolts have probably been sitting there since the late 90s or early 2000s. They like to seize up. My advice? Start soaking everything in penetrating oil a few days before you plan to do the work.
Once the old arms are off, the new ones usually bolt right up. The trickiest part is usually the ball joints. Some kits come with them pre-pressed, which is a lifesaver. If they don't, you'll need a press or a very large C-clamp and some patience. After everything is bolted on, you'll have to do a front-end alignment. You want to set your "toe-in" correctly—usually about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch—so the bike tracks straight and doesn't wander.
How it Actually Feels on the Trail
The first time you take a Blaster out with a wider front end, it's a "lightbulb" moment. You'll find yourself hitting corners at speeds that would have felt like a death wish on the stock setup. The quad stays flat. There's less body roll, and that "tippy" sensation in the handlebars is almost entirely gone.
It also changes how the suspension works. Because the arms are longer, they have more leverage over the shocks. This often makes the front end feel a bit softer and more plush. Small bumps that used to rattle your teeth now get soaked up much better. It's a rare win-win where you get better stability and a more comfortable ride at the same time.
Maintenance and Keeping Things Tight
After you've put a few hours on your new yamaha blaster wide a arms, you need to go back and check all your hardware. Vibrations from a two-stroke engine are no joke, and things can loosen up. Make sure the ball joint nuts are tight and that your pivot bolts are still torqued to spec.
Grease is your best friend here. Most aftermarket arms come with grease zerk fittings. Use them! Keeping the bushings lubricated will prevent that annoying squeaking and, more importantly, stop the metal-on-metal wear that eventually leads to "slop" in the steering. If you take care of them, a good set of chromoly arms will probably outlast the rest of the quad.
Is the Investment Really Worth It?
People often ask if it's worth spending several hundred dollars on an old Blaster. To me, it depends on what you want out of the bike. If you love the size and the zip of the 200cc engine, then yes, wide a-arms are the single best chassis upgrade you can make. It transforms the Blaster from a "beginner's quad" into a legitimate trail-slayer that can keep up with much larger machines in the twisties.
It's about confidence. When you know your quad isn't going to flip over the moment you get a little aggressive, you become a better rider. You focus on your lines and your throttle control rather than just trying to stay upright. For most of us, that's worth every penny. Whether you're hitting the local trails or just tearing up a field, a set of yamaha blaster wide a arms makes the ride safer, faster, and a whole lot more fun.